Quick Navigation
Rising dramatically from the waters of Scapa Flow, the island of Hoy offers Orkney's wildest landscapes, iconic landmarks, and poignant wartime history. As Orkney's second-largest island, Hoy demands exploration beyond a fleeting glimpse of its famous sea stack. From challenging hill climbs and unique Neolithic sites to world-class museums and diverse accommodation, this guide covers everything you need to plan an unforgettable visit to this captivating island.
Key Takeaways for Visiting Hoy
| Top Attractions | Old Man of Hoy, Rackwick Bay, Dwarfie Stane (Neolithic tomb), Scapa Flow Museum (WWII history). |
| Hiking | Excellent walking, including the famous Old Man coastal path, Ward Hill (Orkney's highest point), and challenging cliff routes. |
| Getting There | Orkney Ferries only (Stromness to Moaness for walkers; Houton to Lyness for cars). Book vehicle ferry early. |
| Getting Around Hoy | Car needed for full exploration (via Lyness ferry). Limited public transport; pre-book taxis/bikes. |
| Accommodation | Limited options (hostels, B&Bs, self-catering, lighthouse). Book well in advance if staying overnight. |
Hoy's Must-See Attractions
Hoy packs a punch with its diverse points of interest, blending natural wonders with ancient and modern history.
The Old Man of Hoy
Undoubtedly Orkney's most famous natural landmark, the Old Man of Hoy is a towering 137-metre (449 ft) red sandstone sea stack. Visible from the Scrabster-Stromness ferry, its true scale and majesty are best appreciated up close via the coastal path from Rackwick Bay. It's a popular challenge for rock climbers, and watching them ascend the sheer faces adds another layer of awe. The surrounding cliffs teem with seabirds during nesting season.
Rackwick Bay
Often described as one of Scotland's most beautiful locations, Rackwick Bay is a stunning sweep of large pebbles and sand, dramatically enclosed by towering red sandstone cliffs. The remote Rackwick Hostel and a free bothy and camping area make it a popular base for hikers tackling the Old Man path or exploring the valley. The bay's raw beauty changes constantly with the light and tides.
Dwarfie Stane
Step back 5,000 years at the Dwarfie Stane, Britain's only example of a Neolithic rock-cut tomb. Carved from a single, enormous block of sandstone, this unique monument lies in a lonely valley near Rackwick. Visitors can crawl inside to see the chambers intended for burials. Norse graffiti from the 12th century adds another layer of history, while local folklore tells tales of giants and dwarves associated with the stone.
Scapa Flow Museum
Located at Lyness in South Hoy, the recently refurbished Scapa Flow Museum offers a world-class insight into Orkney's crucial role in naval history, particularly during both World Wars. Interactive exhibits detail the story of the Royal Navy's base at Scapa Flow, the scuttling of the German High Seas Fleet, and the lives of those who served here. Allow several hours to fully explore the extensive displays housed in historic naval buildings.
Martello Towers
These two squat, circular stone towers at Crockness and Hackness were built in the early 19th century to defend against potential naval attacks during the Napoleonic Wars. They represent an important part of Orkney's long military history and offer excellent viewpoints over Longhope sound.
Walking Routes on Hoy
Hoy is a hiker's paradise, offering routes ranging from gentle coastal strolls to demanding hill climbs.
- Old Man of Hoy Coastal Path: The most popular walk (9.25km / 5.75 miles return from Rackwick). Allow 2.5-3 hours. The path is well-defined but rocky in places, with stunning cliff-top views.
- Rackwick to St John's Head: A challenging 13km (8 miles) loop for experienced hillwalkers, taking in Britain's highest vertical sea cliff (351m). Requires navigation skills and takes around 5-7 hours.
- Ward Hill Climb: Ascend Orkney's highest peak (481m / 1578 ft) from the Dwarfie Stane car park. A strenuous 8-mile return trip offering panoramic views on clear days. Allow 4-6 hours.
- Lyness Heritage Trail: An easier walk around the former naval base at Lyness, exploring wartime buildings and coastal defences.
Getting To and Around Hoy
Access to Hoy is exclusively by sea via Orkney Ferries.
- Stromness to Moaness (North Hoy): A 40-minute passenger-only ferry, ideal for accessing Rackwick and the Old Man walk.
- Houton (Mainland) to Lyness (South Hoy): A 40-minute car ferry service, convenient for visiting the Scapa Flow Museum and exploring South Hoy.
Booking vehicle spaces on the Lyness ferry is essential, especially in summer. Foot passenger tickets can usually be bought on the day, but checking timetables and booking ahead via the Orkney Ferries website or phone line is recommended.
On Hoy itself, public transport is very limited. Bringing a car (via Lyness) or hiring bikes (can sometimes be arranged) offers the most freedom. Taxis are available but should be pre-booked.
Accommodation on Hoy
While most visitors stay on the Orkney Mainland, Hoy offers unique accommodation for those wanting a more immersive experience:
- Hostels: The basic Rackwick Hostel and the Hoy Outdoor Centre near Moaness offer budget-friendly beds.
- B&Bs and Guesthouses: Options like the Stromabank Hotel in Longhope provide comfortable rooms and meals.
- Self-Catering: Several cottages and houses are available for rent across the island.
- Unique Stays: The Cantick Head Lighthouse keeper's cottage offers a truly memorable stay.
- Camping/Bothy: Free, basic facilities are available at Rackwick Bay (Burnmouth Bothy).
Booking accommodation on Hoy well in advance is highly recommended due to limited availability.
Watch: Hiking the Old Man of Hoy
See the stunning coastal path and the iconic sea stack in this video from Wild Scotland Tours:
Conclusion: Is Hoy Worth Visiting?
Absolutely! Hoy offers a dramatic contrast to the gentler landscapes of the Orkney Mainland. Its towering cliffs, unique geological formations like the Old Man and Dwarfie Stane, rich wartime history centred around Scapa Flow, and challenging walking routes make it a must-visit for adventurous travellers and history enthusiasts. While requiring a bit more planning due to ferry access and limited on-island facilities, the rewards are immense. Spending a night or two on Hoy allows for deeper exploration and a true sense of escape.
Ready to conquer Hoy? Find accommodation options ranging from hostels to unique lighthouse stays on Orkney Stays and start planning your island adventure.
